Tivoli Village opened several months ago in Summerlin, providing an even yuppier version of Town Square for the folks living in the western part of our fair city. I really had no desire to go there as I hate shopping, but the recently opened Bottles & Burgers restaurant finally gave me a reason to do so. The name has plenty of promise, as I am quite the fan of the assumed liquids they’re referring to in those bottles, and of course there’s that whole burger thing. A friend went the first week they were open and wasn’t impressed, but we weren’t sure how much of that was due to it being a new restaurant versus if they just weren’t delivering. After my visit I would have to agree with the latter.
I went there on a Sunday afternoon and it was pretty empty; not sure how much of that was due to the playoff game going on at that time (go Pats!) or if the place just isn’t doing well. After speaking with some folks in other shops I think they’re just not getting the turnout they anticipated, hopefully the planned expansion will bring more people through. The interior of the restaurant is far less exciting than I was hoping, and what one would expect based on all of the high end stores and finishes of everything else in this shopping mall/office park. It is completely sparse, there isn’t really anything hanging on the walls, the ceiling is open to the structure above in some parts, the bar is underwhelming and the furniture is simple. But these are all things that the average person might not care about as long as the place is comfortable and the food is decent, so read on.
The menu offerings for pre-made burgers are slim; I think there were four different Angus-based burgers to choose from, along with chicken, tuna and veggie patties. If you don’t like one of the few choices, you can always create your own. There was some other non-burger offerings on the menu I believe, but I was there with one thing on my mind so I didn’t really pay attention to the rest, sorry. Also on the menu are a wide variety of fry options including sherry aioli, truffle aioli, brown gravy, and sweet potato.
I went with the Double Helix stuffed burger, which is listed as “certified angus beef stuff with braised short rib & topped with fresh horseradish, slow roasted tomatoes, red onion slice, double helix mustard on a brioche bun. The burgers are much smaller than I anticipated, although I still ended up full at the end. I think they forgot the red onion slice, as mine came without one, and I had a small slow roasted tomato, nothing plural about it. The presentation was very nice as you can see, with the top bun separated from the burger, but that’s about where the happiness ended.
From the first bite the burger was good, but not great. After about halfway through our burgers, my friend and I both said that it was good, but not really worth coming back for. The meat had good flavor, nothing stellar, and perhaps mine was thrown off a bit from being medium-rare by the fact that it was stuffed with short rib. Neat idea, but I should have ordered a plain patty to get a better sampling of what they have to offer. The meat to bun ratio was good, the brioche was a little on the plain side but ok, and the toppings were all fresh. The mustard/horseradish seemed to be mixed together as I didn’t really see both, but were good. In summation it all looked great, sounded great, but tasted just ok. Nothing really bad about it, but nothing really stood out to take it to that next level.
The fries were another issue, and that’s something I find myself saying far too often. We went with two fry offerings to do a little sampling: the Double Helix fries which had shallot, sherry aioli and fine herbs, and the fellini fries with parmesan, truffle aioli and parsley. Both didn’t hold the flavor of what they were tossed with, they seemed like your typical frozen French fry tossed with some ingredients to look fancy. The flavor of the fries themselves wasn’t so great, and we were both disappointed overall with how they tasted.
All of this leads up to a bit of an overpriced, underwhelming meal. My fancy burger was $15, and I think too much for what it is. Our bill for two burgers, two fries and one iced tea came to $37, if this was on the strip I’d potentially be ok with it, but I think that’s far too much for a suburban location, even in yuppie-ville at a ‘nice’ shopping area. And after recently eating one of the best burgers I’ve had in a long time around the corner for 1/6 of the price, I really just can’t recommend this place to anyone.